Day 21-23 Lunenburg, Nova Scotia   Leave a comment

Prior to leaving Annapolis Royal, we visited Nautical Seafood and toured their plant.

Each large wooden crate holds 1,000 pounds of already “sized” lobsters. Each of the smaller crates holds 100 pounds of lobsters.

Check out the 13 pounder above, left.

Once they are “sized” they are put in this container for storing.

WOW, 100,000 lobsters were processed thru there last year.

Our drive to Lunenburg was a short drive so when we got in, we tore ourselves away from our beautiful view

And drove around town. What a beautiful community.

Along the sidewalk, hanging from the telephone poles were fish sculptures. There are forty of them displayed along 2 of the streets, honoring the top twenty fish and shellfish species landed by the area’s commercial fishery.

We just LOVE the town of Lunenburg. It’s so colorful.

There were different kinds of art all over town that we enjoyed;

Next to the wharf, they were in the middle of a HUGE project, painting a whale on the sidewalk.

I suspect that it will be done by the time we visit again.

The town is full of murals.

As well as really cute houses and buildings. We love the way Canadians take pride in their buildings and the way they paint them. They are so decorative. Check out the green building below, it’s called “Cilantro.”

We stopped at the Ironworks Distillery which was fairly new when we visited four years ago.. What an interesting story. They ordered their still from Germany, which is wood burning. They were distilling molasses while we were there.

Four years ago, the Bluenose II was dry docked for renovation. It was originally built in 1963 and rebuilt in 2012. They called it a renovation, but it’s really a “rebuild.” The hull is a total rebuild and the deck contains items from the original Bluenose II that they could save. The boat itself is 161 feet long.

Katherine was our guide at the Fisheries Museum and it was interesting to hear of the history of the area. Her family settled in this town, right where the coffee shop is located, in the 1700s.

During our tour of the Museum, we learned so much about the Bluenose I and II. Bluenose I launched in March 1921. In order to race, it had to be a fishing boat for 1 season, so in April 1921 through September it worked as a fishing schooner. In the fall, it ran its first race and came in 2nd. Below is a photo of the schooner with a #2 on its sail. It very quickly earned a #1.

On its second race, it took first place and continued to be the first place winner for 17 years. During these years, she earned her keep and was high-liner (meaning brought in a good catch) of the Lunenburg fishing fleet on a number of occasions. In 1938 she was named Queen of the North Atlantic fishing fleet.

World War II marked the end of the great fishing schooners. Modern diesel-powered steel trawlers began to replace them. In 1942, the Bluenose I was sold to the West Indian Trading Company, but in 1946, the Bluenose struck a Haitian reef and sank.

The Bluenose II was launched in 1963. It is identical to Bluenose I, built in the same shipyard and by some of the same men. In 1971 it was sold to the government of Nova Scotia for $1 by the Oland family of Halifax. It has the largest working mainsail in the world, measuring 4,150 square feet. Total sail area measures over 11,000 square feet!

Outside our guide showed us how ships are launched.

Inside the museum, we learned a lot about the fishing industry in Lunenburg. By 1540, each spring the fishermen set out to fish on the offshore banks. The catch was split and stowed in the ship’s hold between layers of salt to preserve it. Months later, when the vessel returned home, the fish was still moist or “green.” This is known as greenfishing.

In the 1870s, a new method of fishing came about. Instead of jigging from the deck with a handline, the men rowed out from the schooner in dories to set trawls (longlines with hundreds of hooks) over a wide area. This greatly increased the catch per man (because the longline had hundreds of hooks whereas the handline only had one or two) and is known as the golden age of the saltbanker. The dory was great for bank fishing because they could be stacked one inside the other on the crowded deck of a schooner. They were 15 feet in length and could carry a large load while away from the mother ship.

In the last fifty years, the offshore fishery has changed greatly. Diesel and electric motors have replaced wind and muscle power. Most of the catch is now destined for North American markets rather than the export trade and is sold fresh or frozen, rather than dried. Catching, processing and transportation methods have all been mechanized, resulting in an increased efficiency and expanding markets and increased the economic rewards both for those actually engaged in fishery and for the economy of Atlantic Canada.

The museum houses a 25 pound lobster, who is about 60 years old, pictured below left. It’s hard to see him, so below right is about the same size lobster.

Below is a claw that came from a lobster about the same size.

In the years after World War I, smuggling liquor was a money making business for many people. “Prohibition,” which outlawed the general use of alcohol, was instituted in both Canada and the United States. Rum running in the early 1920’s quickly expanded to include people of many occupations. Fishermen, with their close proximity to the sea and seldom used coves and inlets of the Atlantic coast, had an integral part in this movement. Check out this radio that was used on land to communicate with a rum runner!

Today we have “hand held” radios.

On the wharf was a lobster trap so Bill and I decided to see how they feel when they get trapped.

In the aquarium there were many different kinds of fish. We even saw live scallops which were fun to watch. I had never seen a live scallop before. And the guide cut it open to show us how to get to the scallop

and then fed it to the starfish.

Bill and I decided to visit the pewter shop in the next town, Mahone Bay. It was amazing. She first showed us how quickly the pewter melts down and cools off. The second she spread the pewter out on the table, it was solid. To form a goblet, the start with a flat disk, spin it and vola!

The town itself was quite cute. I love the house below right.

We ended our time in Lunenburg with an ice cream social.

I can’t think of a better way to end a day.


Posted July 10, 2015 by carolnbill in Travel

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